Vintage Eska Valjoux 22 Spillman Chrono w/Stunning Gilt Sector Dial

$4795.0 Buy It Now or Best Offer
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Seller Store tomvox1
(280) 100.0%,

Location: Brooklyn, New York
Ships to: US,
Item: 186359155793

All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
Bezel Color:Steel
Closure:Buckle
Dial Pattern:Sector
Number of Jewels:17 Jewels
Indices:Gilt Sector Dial
Year Manufactured:1950-1959
Band/Strap:Two-Piece Strap
Vintage:Yes
Case Thickness:11 mm
Case Color:Steel
Department:Men
Lug Width:19 mm
Bezel Type:Fixed
Watch Shape:Round
Style:Vintage,Tool Watch,Chronograph
Features:12-Hour Dial,Chronograph,Gilt Dial,Sector Dial,Stainless Steel,Valjoux 22
Case Size:37 mm
Case Material:Stainless Steel
Handmade:No
Movement:Mechanical (Manual)
Water Resistance:Not Water Resistant
Seller Warranty:No
With Papers:No
Reference Number:Does Not Apply
With Service Records:No
ESKA:ESKA
Type:Wristwatch
Band Color:Black
Customized:No
Band Material:Leather
Dial Color:Black
Spillman Chronograph:Spillman Chronograph
Band Width:19 mm
With Original Box/Packaging:No
Case Finish:Brushed & Polished
With Manual/Booklet:No
Country/Region of Manufacture:Switzerland
Display:Analog

On offer is this rare and beautiful circa 1940s-50s Eska chronograph in Spillman case with amazing gilt sector dial, powered by the famed Valjoux 22 movement. A rather unheralded brand, Eska was founded as S. Kocher in 1918 with “Eska” being a simple phonetic version of those initials for the purposes of branding. Like a lot of mid-century manufacturers, Eska made use of the contract oversize Spillman waterproof cases and Valjoux movements to create aviator & military-style chronographs to meet the demand of the WWII and post-War era. This example is notable not only for the large and sought after 37mm screw back Spillman case and Valjoux 22 caliber with 45-minute counter under the hood but, of course, the obvious superstar is the stunning black gilt dial with super uncommon and beautiful sector dial layout. This is one of the most sought after chronograph layouts in vintage watches, as made famous by Patek Phillipe in several of their most coveted vintage references. While I wouldn’t call this Eska inexpensive, this special piece will certainly set you back a helluva lot less than a period Patek version would. Overall, this classic Eska chrono is in Very Good vintage condition with a stunning Very Good+ original gilt dial with complex outer chronograph scales, minute track and interior Arabic numeral sector layout for the timekeeping. The case has some wear and the lugs appear to have been given a matte finish rather than the typical polished finish seen on most Spillman cases. The venerable Valjoux 22 movement was serviced recently and is operating well, ready for years’ more faithful service for its lucky new owner. CASE & BACK: Classic oversize 37mm wide (not including crown) x 45mm long x around 11mm tall all-stainless steel two-piece screwed Spillman water resistant case with faceted lugs and domed bezel. The case shows an uncommon matte finish to the lugs that was added to the watch ex-factory, perhaps by a military man who wasn’t keen on the initial shininess of certain parts of the watch. Original brushed matte finish is present on the sides, with undistorted lug holes. The case exhibits typical wear for a 70+year-old watch that has been worn regularly with superficial scratches and one or two nicks but no serious dings. The outer part of the screw-in caseback shows numerous scratches and some deeper marks to the polygon facets from poor opening technique — Good cosmetic condition. However, all external nomenclature (typical of the later Spillmans, I believe, as is the less prominent polished bezel) is present and crisp. The inner back and the back of the case have minimal corrosion and the inner caseback does not have any branding or hallmarks, merely the original attractive perlage finish. DIAL & HANDS: All-original and absolutely stunning glossy black gilt dial with complex outer calibrated Tachymeter & Telemeter chronograph scales, followed concentrically by a minute track and Arabic numeral sector dial interior for the standard timekeeping. Engine-turned sub registers for constant seconds at “9” and the 45-minute recorder at “3”, also with gilt numerals. There are some signs of age to the surface of the dial, including a light “stardust” speckling throughout and one or two scratches and marks to the glossy lacquer surface. Overall, Very Good+ original condition for this wonderfully complex gilt dial and a combination of special design elements that you will rarely find in any vintage chronograph. Original small gold “leaf” hour & minute hands are Excellent, as are the sweep seconds chrono hand two gold subdial hands. This Eska sector dial represents beautifully on the wrist, often brightly reflecting the light when you move, and the gilt sector dial layout is absolutely stunning aesthetically, not to mention incredibly hard to find in the wild unless on a modern homage. MOVEMENT: The famed Valjoux caliber 22 chronograph movement was a stalwart of military chronographs of the era, with its characteristic 45-minute counter complication, and it is also a big ebauche well suited to the Spillman case. This nicely brass-finished 17-jewel movement looks very bright and clean and was fully serviced by my watchmaker last year. Therefore, it runs well, with a strong power reserve and all chronograph functions performing properly and all timekeeping, setting and winding aspects working as they should. I have noticed that the minute recorder does occasionally jump a second or two before the sweep seconds hits “60” but not sure if this is typical of Val 22 movements or not. CROWN & PUSHERS: Original oversized unsigned crown shows a bit of wear to the cladding but operates perfectly well. The pushers show only minor wear. The push-in crown sits flush to the case, winds the movement and sets the time when pulled out as designed. As is most common, the top pusher starts & stops the timer and the bottom resets it. The operation of both pushers is reasonably crisp and all counters reset to zero with firm finger pressure of the bottom pusher. CRYSTAL: Older unsigned low dome acrylic crystal has some residual scratches from the years even after being polished, but no chips, cracks and only very minor discoloration — Very Good. STRAP: This cool Eska chrono comes on a brand new handmade black leather strap with black box stitching. Like many classic aviator chronos of the period, this Eska has a lug width of 19mm. As a matter of policy, I make absolutely NO guarantees for the water resistance of this watch in any way, shape or form. This great collector’s vintage Eska Valjoux 22 Spillman-cased chrono with amazing gilt sector dial is guaranteed genuine and as described. Photos serve to inform the buyer of condition of the watch, as does the written description. What you see is exactly what you will receive! Thanks for looking, T.

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