TECUMSEH 610906, 610855 CASE 1816 B HH160 BOLENS SEARS MILLER WELDER BLUESTAR 2E

$299.99 Buy It Now or Best Offer
free,30-Day Returns

Seller Store larrys_small_engine_salvage_1
(6590) 98.7%,

Location: Winn, Michigan
Ships to: US,
Item: 256694711831

All returns accepted:ReturnsNotAccepted
Compatible Brand:TECUMSEH/LAUSON
Power Source:TECUMSEH / LAUSON
Color:Silver
Compatible Model:Many large HH and OH Tecumseh Cast Iron Engines.
Country of Manufacture:United States
Material:Alloy Steel,Aluminum,Plastic,Rubber
MPN:MILLER, WELDER, BLUESTAR 2E SOLID, STATE, IGNITION,MAGNETO 610906 CASE 1816B HH150 610855,D 59439 CASE 1816 MAGNETO, SOLID, STATE,CASE 1816B TECUSEH HH160, OH180, HH150, OH140,Sears ST/12 Engine HH120 Coil,MILLER, WELDER, ROUGHNECK 2E SSI, UNIT,
California Prop 65 Warning:Does not apply
Tecumseh:Tecumseh
Type:MAGNETO solid state
Unit Type:Unit
Horsepower:12, 14, 15, 16, 18
Number in Pack:1
Voltage:MAGNETO
HH120, OH120, OH140, HH150, HH160, OH160, OH180:HH120, OH120, OH140, HH150, HH160, OH160, OH180
Country/Region of Manufacture:United States
Unit Quantity:1
Item Weight:2 lb

Welcome to Larry’s Small Engines.THIS IS THE 610906 WHICH IS THE SAME THING AS THE 610855. YOU MAY NOT NEED THIS PART!!!THIS IS WHY WE ENCOURAGE OUR CUSTOMERS TO READ EVERYTHING BELOW!!IF YOUR OLD SSI UNIT QUIT WORKING THEN IT IS BECAUSE SOMETHING SHORTED IT OUT AND YOU NEED TO FIRST FIND OUT WHAT IT WAS OR YOU WILL INSTANTLY BURN OUT THE NEXT ONE AS SOON AS YOU HOOK IT UP!! THE GOOD NEWS IS,THAT YOUR ANSWERS ARE ALL BELOW AS TO WHAT HAPPEN, HOW TO FIX AND THE PREVENTION FROM IT EVER HAPPENING AGAIN!!!!! YES! WE SAID, EVER!!!!WITH US HAVING OVER 360 VIDEOS ALONE ON YOUTUBE OF JUST THIS PARTICULAR UNIT, THEN IT SHOULD TELL YOU THAT WE SPECIALIZE IN THE VINTAGE TECUMSEH CAST IRON ENGINE PARTS. HAVING SAID THAT, YOU REALLY NEED TO TAKE THE NEXT 4 MINUTES OF YOUR TIME TO READ EVERYTHING BELOW TO GET AN UNDERSTANDING OF WHY YOURS BLEW UP.THE MAIN THING TO KNOW IS…YOUR ENGINE RUNS ON AC CURRENT. DC CAN NEVER COME INTO CONTACT WITH AC CURRENTAC AND DC DO NOT PLAY WELL WITH EACH OTHER!!! THERE ARE TWO VIDEOS IN THIS ITEM DESCRIPTION.TOWARDS THE END OF THIS DESCRIPTION IS A VIDEO OF THIS UNIT IN WORKING ORDER BUT WE IMPLORE YOU TO FINISH READING DESCRIPTION FIRST OR YOU WILL MOST DEFINITELY BLOW UP ANOTHER ONE!THE SECOND, THIRD AND FORTH PHOTOS ARE OF THE ACTUAL ONE BEING SOLD HERE.THIS DESCRIPTION BELOW WILL TELL YOU EVERYTHING TO LOOK FOR THAT CAUSED YOUR COIL TO BLOW UP! READ EVERYTHING BELOW AND YOU WONT ENCOUNTER ONE OF THOSE ERRORS! IF YOURS QUIT WORKING IT IS BECAUSE SOMETHING SHORTED IT OUT.THERE IS NO IN BETWEEN ON THESE TECUMSEH SOLID STATE COILS.THEY EITHER WORK OR THEY DON’T!THEY WERE NEVER MEANT TO GO BAD.FOR EXAMPLE: SOME OF THESE GOOD USED UNITS ARE OVER 50 YEARS OLD AND STILL WORKING! THAT RIGHT THERE ALONE SHOULD TELL YOU SOMETHING ABOUT HOW THEY WERE MADE.THEY WERE NOT MADE WITH JUNK CHINA PARTS LIKE WHAT PEOPLE ARE TRYING TO MAKE THESE OUT OF THESE DAYS. THEY DO NOT WORK RIGHT. THEY TEND TO NOT WANT TO RUN OVER 2500 RPMs BEFORE THEENGINE WANTS TO START POPPING AND BACKFIRING. THE TECUMSEH CAST IRON ENGINE RUNS A MAX OF 3600 RPMs. NOW ONE OF THE WORSE THINGS THEY ARE USING IS THE MODULES ON THEIRS THAT WERE NOT MADE TO WITHSTAND THE HEAT OF WHAT THE TECUMSEH CAST IRON ENGINE TENDS TO GENERATE! THE ORIGINALS WERE MADE WITH SOLID STATE COMPONETS AND THEN ALL EPOXY SEALED SHUT TO KEEP MOISTURE AND AIR OUT. THE ORIGINALS WERE EPOXIED INTO ANALUMINUM HOUSING IN WHICH EVERYONE KNOWS THAT ALUMINUM DIPASITATES HEAT FASTER WHICH HELPS THE SSI UNIT TO STAY COOLER WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. THE FLYWHEEL FINS BLOW COOL AIR OVER THE ALUMINUM HOUSING PUSHING THE HEAT AWAY FROM IT TO KEEP IT COOL. OUR FIRST PICTURE OF THIS LISTING PRETTY MUCH SAYS IT ALL OF WHATI AM SAYING ABOVE. GO READ THAT AND YOU WILL KNOW.THE ONLY THING CHINA HAS GAVE US IS A BUNCH OF CRAP TO PUT INTO OUR LANDFILLS!!!!WE WANT YOU TO KNOW THIS FIRST….PRETAINING TWO VIDEOS BELOW. THE FIRST ONE WILL SHOW YOU JUST ONE OUT OF THE MANY THINGS THAT YOU NEED TO LOOK FOR BEFORE REPLACING YOUR SSI UNIT WITH ANOTHER GOOD USED OR NEW ONE LIKE OURS. AGAIN, THE VIDEO BELOW WILL SHOW YOU JUST ONE (1.) OUT OF THE 3 THINGS THAT CAUSED YOURS TO QUIT WORKING. IT BASICALLY ALL BOILS DOWN TO NEGLECT!!!NOW THIS FIRST VIDEO BELOW WASTECUMSEHS OWN FAULT BUT HOW WERE THEY TO KNOW AT THE TIME OFASSEMBLY THAT THIS LITTLE FLAW WOULD CAUSE SERIOUS PROBLEMS HERE 50 YEARS LATER. LARRY HIMSELF IS THE ONE WHO CAME ACROSS THIS VERY HARMFUL FLAW. SINCE THEN HE HAS FOUND THIS VERY SAME FLAW ACURRING ON JUST ABOUT ALL OF THEM NOW.FURTHER DOWN TOWARDS THE END OF THIS LISTING YOU WILL SEE THE OTHER VIDEO LINK SHOWING OUR SSI UNIT HERE, IN WORKING ORDER BUT WAIT TO VIEW THAT AND CONTINUE READING AFTER REVIEWING THIS SHORT VIDEO FIRST.HERE IS IS A VIDEO OF A TECUMSEH 10 AMP STATOR (SAME DIFFERENCE AS THE 20 AMP WHEN IT COME TO FAILURE). JUST CLICK ON THE BLUE WORDS BELOW TO SEE WHAT COULD HAVE BURNT YOURS OUT.Bad Tecumseh 10 amp stator wire. NOW TAKE A LOOK BELOW AT JUST A FRACTION OF THE FEEDBACK THAT WE RECEIVED FROM THOSE WHO HAVE PURCHASED THESE FROM US. Item as described. Seller very helpful with project. A+++++++………………………………………………………….Buyer..debrepair (393)TECUMSEH 610906, 610855 CASE 1816B HH160 BOLENS SEARS MILLER BLUESTAR 2E………….$280.00…(#256168579574)Exactly as described an works flawlessly! These guys know what they are doing!Please use doing business gents!…………………………………………………………………………………………………Buyer..jteezy3699 (241)59437 FLYWHEEL, 14547 REGULATOR, 59583 Stator Alternator………………………………………………..$268.89….(#266359580869)Yes, looks amazing on outside of product, like it just came off of theoriginal assembly line. Seller does fantastic work would recommend him to other people looking for a carburetor for Tecumseh engines to talk to them first………………………………….Buyer..nickbur_0 (7)WALBRO CARBURETOR ARGO 6×6 OH140, OH160 Tecumseh MILLER BLUESTAR SEARS 16/6….$280.00..(# 256087927374)The description was perfect and I was able to get the part that I needed to fix my engine.Thank you so much you saved me from buying a $3,000 oem replacement…………………………………..Buyer..1stilllooking (493)TECUMSEH 20 AMP STATOR COIL ALTERNATOR BOLENS SEARS MILLER WELDER 2E………………………….(# 266123766433)Very pleased, item well packaged. It’s working good……………………………………………………………………….Buyer………tbhpvh (31)TECUMSEH 20 AMP STATOR COIL ALTERNATOR BOLENS SEARS MILLER WELDER 2E…………………………(# 254863954117)The best seller I have had the pleasure of buying from and the communication was outstanding and very helpful.The items were expertly cleaned and reconditioned. Fit Perfectly and Works Great.An excellent source of parts for the old Tecumseh engines…THANKS AGAIN…………………………….Buyer..potbellyman1 (640)TECUMSEH STATOR COIL, FLYWHEEL, REGULATOR & WIRING HARNESS……………………………………………..(#254941286683)Thanks for the fix…my case 1816b uniloader is running……………………………………………………………………Buyer….tecincog (918)TECUMSEH 20 AMP STATOR COIL ALTERNATOR BOLENS SEARS MILLER WELDER 2E…………………………..(#264785482737)Great seller!!!……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..Buyer..marjorie3271 (138)TECUMSEH 20 AMP STATOR FLYWHEEL OH120 OH140 OH160 OH180 ENGINE MILLER BLUE STAR…………(#254764320637)good product great packing thanks jopier……………………………………………………………………………Buyer..jopier_6305 (207)Tecumseh 610761 Alternator Stator Charging 610747 HH100, HH120, OH160, MF 10, 12…………………(#256288641200)OK Product………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………Buyer.3home160bella (302)TECUMSEH 610906, 610855 CASE 1816B HH160 BOLENS SEARS MILLER BLUESTAR 2E……………$280.00..(#256219912799)THIS IS LABELED AS FOR PARTS OR NOT WORKING BECAUSE IT IS AN ELECTRICAL ITEM.WE DO NOT KNOW IF THE CUSTOMER (POSSIBLEY YOU) WILL READ OR DO WHAT WE SAY TO DO IN THIS ITEM DESCRIPTION BEFORE THE INSTALATION OF THIS UNIT.THAT IS ANOTHER REASON IT IS BEING SOLD “AS IS WHERE AVAILABLE WITH NO RETURNS.”NOW READ THIS!!!HERE IS WHAT YOU NEED TO DO FIRST… THE MAIN THING THAT HAS A TENDENCY TO BURN THESE UNITS OUT AREOLD FAULTY WIRES THAT ARE CRACKED AND DRY ROTTED FROM AGE AND OR THEY HAD RUBBED UP AGAINST THE ENGINE / FRAME TO SHORT THIS UNIT OUT.IF YOU FIND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE STATOR WIRES AND YOU DID NOT USE AN ARC WELDER ON WHATEVER YOUR ENGINE IS ON, THEN WE GUARANTEE THATYOUR IGNITION SWITCH BURNED YOUR UNIT OUT.FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT THING TO DO IS UNDO THE THREE WIRE PLUG FROM THE ENGINES HARNESS. THIS IS LOCATED BY THE TOP OF THE ELECTRIC STARTER MOTOR. UNPLUG THAT HARNESS THAT GOES TO THE REGULATOR / RECTIFIER & IGNITION SWITCH.LEAVE THAT UNPLUG UNTILL WE TELL YOU TO HOOK IT BACK UP!THE ONE THING WE EXPERIENCED WITH THE COIL BURNING OUT IS THE WIRES FROMTHE STATOR COIL CHARGER ( 20 AMP AND 10 AMP ). THAT PART IS LOCATED BEHIND THE FLYWHEEL. (DO NOT SKIP THIS PROCEDURE!) THE FLYWHEEL MUST BE REMOVED TO DO THE JOB THE CORRECT WAY ORJUST PLAN ON BUYING ANOTHER SSI UNIT!THIS IS FOR THE 20 AMP FLYWHEEL:NEVER TRY TO REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL WITH A SCREWDRIVER AND HAMMER!!! DO NOT TAP ON FLYWHEEL WITH A HAMMER!!!YOU WILL ONLY RUIN OR CAUSE THE MAGNETS TO COME UNGLUED FROM INSIDE THE FLYWHEEL BY BEATING ON IT! THAT GLUE HOLDING THEM MAGNETS IN IS 40 TO 50 YEARS OLD!IT WILL GIVE WAY AND THEY WILL NOW STICK TO THE STATOR CHARGER. IF THIS EVER HAPPENS THEN DO NOT REMOVE THE MAGNETS FROM THE STATOR WITHOUT KNOWING EXACTLY WHERE AND HOW THEY GO BACK INTO PLACE AS THEY HAVE TO BE PUT BACK IN THE EXACT WAY THEY CAME OUT. MARK ALL THE MAGNETS AND THE SPOTS ON THE FLYWHEEL OF WHERE THEY GO BACK IN AT AND THEN CLEAN THE FLYWHEEL WITH SOME SANDPAPER, WIREWHEEL IN A DRILL OR WHATEVER. DO THE SAME THING TO THE BACK OF THE MAGNETS AND THEN GET YOURSELF SOME RED OR THE HI TEMP GREEN HIGH STRENGTH LOCTITE AND PUT A THIN LAYER ON THE BACK OF THE MAGNET AND PUT IT BACK INTO PLACE. ALLOW A FULL 18 TO 20 HOUR DRY TIME IN A 70 TO 80 DEGREE WARM PLACE. THE PROPER WAY TO REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL: THERE ARE THREE BOLT HOLES (1/4-20 THREAD) RIGHT BY WHERE THE NUT IS. YOU HAVE TO GET A HARMONIC BALANCE PULLER TO DO THE JOB THE RIGHT WAY.REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL AND SET IT ASIDE.THESE WIRES RUN BEHIND A TAB ON THE ENGINE BLOCK.THAT TAB HOLDS THE WIRES AWAY FROM THE SPINNING OF THE FLYWHEEL.THAT TAB HAS A HISTORY OF RUBBING THROUGH THEM WIRES FROM VIBRATION OF THE ENGINE OVER TIME (SEE SECOND TO LAST PHOTO) OR THE COATING JUST FELL OFF THE WIRES OR A MOUSE GOT UP IN THERE AND CHEWED ON IT THUS CAUSING IT TO SHORT OUT THE COIL.IF THIS SHOWS SIGNS OF WEAR ON ANY OF THE WIRES TRY TO REPAIR THEM BY WAY OF SOME GOOD SCOTCH OR 3M ELECTRICAL TAPE.WE RECOMMEND USING ELECTRICAL SHRINK WRAP THOUGH.IF THE PRIMARY WIRE THAT GOES TO THE SOLID STATE COIL HAD A BARE SPOT ON IT AND IT LOOKS LIKE IT COULD HAVE TOUCHED THE ENGINE OR RUBBED THROUGH A SPOT ON THE STATOR THEN THERE IS A 90% CHANCE THE COIL IS BURNED OUT. AFTER TAPING OR SHRINK WRAPPING THESE WIRES UP REAL GOOD YOU CAN STILL TEST THE STATOR.FOR TESTING THE 20 AMP AND 10 AMP STATOR CHARGER ALT:GET A MULTI-METER TESTER.SET YOUR METER ON OHMS.20 AMP STATOR CHARGER SET ON 200 OHMS:20 AMP INSTRUCTIONS.UNHOOK THE PRIMARY WIRE FROM YOUR COIL.ATTACH THE RED PRONG MULTI TESTER TO THAT SINGLE WIRE THAT WENT TO THE COIL. NOW TOUCH THE BLACK MULTI-METER PRONG ON TO THE METAL STEEL PART OF THE STATOR ALTERNATOR CHARGER. (A GOOD PLACE IS WHERE THE SCREWS BOLT THE STATOR CHARGER TO THE ENGINE).IF THE MULTI-METER SHOWS THAT RESISTANCE IS BETWEEN115 OHMS AND 171 OHMS THEN THE 20 AMP STATOR CHARGER IS STILL GOOD.IF IT DOES SHOW THAT IT TESTED GOOD YOU STILL NEED TO INSPECT THE STATOR WIRES REAL CLOSE TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY BREAKS OR CRACKS IN THE WIRES.(IF THE RESISTANCE IS NOT BETWEEN 115 AND 171 THEN THROW IT OUT AND REPLACE).10 AMP STATOR CHARGERS SET ON 2000 OHMS.10 AMP INSTRUCTIONS.SET MULTI-METER TESTER ON 2000 OHMS.UNHOOK THE PRIMARY WIRE FROM YOUR COIL.ATTACH THE RED PRONG MULTI-METER TO THE SINGLE WIRE THAT WENT TO THE COIL. NOW TOUCH THE BLACK MULTI-METER PRONG ON TO THE METAL STEEL PART OF THE STATOR ALTERNATOR CHARGER. (A GOOD PLACE IS WHERE THE SCREWS BOLT THE STATOR CHARGER TO THE ENGINE) .IF THE MULTI-METER SHOWS THAT RESISTANCE IS BETWEEN400 TO 500 OHMS THEN THE 10 AMP STATOR CHARGER IS STILL GOOD.IF IT DOES SHOW THAT IT TESTED GOOD YOU STILL NEED TO INSPECT THE STATOR WIRES REAL CLOSE TO SEE IF THERE IS ANY BREAKS OR CRACKS IN THE WIRES.(IF THE RESISTANCE IS NOT BETWEEN 400 TO 500 OHMS THEN THROW IT OUT AND REPLACE).ONCE YOU KNOW THAT YOU HAVE A GOOD CHARGING STATOR ALTERNATOR INSTALLED; IT IS TIME TO LOOK AT THE FLYWHEEL. (FOR 20 AMP STATOR CHARGER FLYWHEEL)NOW LOOK YOUR FLYWHEEL OVER AND MAKE SURE ALL MAGNETS ARE SECURED TO THE FLYWHEEL. WITH FLYWHEEL MAGNETS FACING DOWN (COOLING FINS FACING UP), CHECK THE LEFT TRIGGER PIN AND MAKE SURE THAT IS .250 THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH IN HEIGHT (1/4 OF AN INCH).NOW CHECK THE RIGHT TRIGGER PIN AND MAKE SURE THAT IS .187 IN HEIGHT. THESE MUST BE VERY CLOSE TO THESE SETTINGS!THESE PINS ARE FOR YOUR TIMING ON THE ENGINE.THE TALL PIN FIRES THE ENGINE AND THEN THE SHORT PIN TAKES OVER AND ADVANCES THE ENGINE AFTER IT IS RUNNING. HOW DOES IT AUTOMATICALLY DO THAT?ANSWER; THE STATOR IS NOW PUTTING OUT ITS FULL POTENTIAL IN JUICE SO NOW THE MAGNET CAN DETECTTHE (.187 PIN) THAT IS FURTHER AWAY. SO THIS ADVANCES THE ENGINE TO TOP DEAD CENTER TO GET THE ENGINES FULL POTENTIAL OUT OF IT. ALSO MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO BURRS OR NICKS TO THE TRIGGER PINS. IF THERE IS THEN TOUCH THEM UP LIGHTLY WITH A FILE.NOW INSTALL YOUR FLYWHEEL.HOOK UP YOUR OLD COIL AGAIN AND SET THE GAP BETWEEN .006 TO .010 THOUSANTHS OF AN INCH AWAY FROM THE HIGHEST (.250) TRIGGER PIN ON THE FLYWHEEL.DO NOT HOOK UP YOUR THREE WIRE HARNESS PLUG YET.NOW PULL THE SPARK PLUG OUT OF THE ENGINE AND PLACE IT INTO THE COIL WIRE.MAKE SURE YOUR SPARK PLUG HAS A GOOD GROUND TO THE ENGINE BLOCK. NOW ROLL ENGINE OVER QUICKLY IN A CLOCKWISE POSITION BY HAND. IF YOU DON’T HAVE ANY SPARK THEN IT IS SAFE TO SAY THAT THE BARE WIRE FROM THE STATOR THAT WENT TO THE COIL CAUSED IT TO BURN IT OUT.NOW YOU KNOW FOR SURE THAT YOU NEED ANOTHER COIL.INSTALL THE NEW / GOOD USED COIL.YOU SHOULD NOW HAVE SPARK.LET’S SAY YOU DID NOT SEE ANY BARE WIRES ON THE STATOR AND THE STATOR STILL TESTED GOOD BUT YOU STILL HAVE NO FIRE TO THE ENGINE.THIS MEANS THAT THE PROBLEM IS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE THREE PRONG STATOR HARNESS PLUG.YOU NOW NEED TO LOOK AT THE WIRING HARNESS FROM THE THREE PRONG PLUG ALL THE WAY TO THE REGULATOR AND IGNITION SWITCH.FOLLOW THEM WIRES DOWN AND LOOK VERY CLOSELY FOR ANY BARE SPOTS. IF YOU DO NOT SEE ANY BARE SPOTS, ESPECIALLY THE WIRE GOING TO THE IGNITION SWITCH, THENREPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH. I DO NOT CARE IF THE SWITCH ACTS LIKE IT IS OKAY OR GOOD!REPLACE IT!!! BECAUSE THIS IS WHAT HAD TO BLOW UP THE COIL.I PERSONALLY HAD A SWITCH ON A BOLENS THAT WORKED BUT OBVIOUSLY IT DID NOT WORK RIGHT.I SEEN A TINY PUFF OF SMOKE COME FROM THE SWITCH AND SEEN THE SAME TINY PUFF OF SMOKE COME FROM UNDER THE ENGINE TINS. YES! IT BURNED OUT THE MODULE INSIDE OF THE SOLID STATE IGNITION COIL.THIS IS WHY I SAY TO REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH!!! THESE SWITCHES GET OLD FROM TURNING THEM ON AND OFF THROUGHOUT THE YEARS WITHOUT EVER GETTING REPLACED. THESE CONTACTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE SWITCH BECOME LOOSE TO WHERE THEY START FLOPPING AROUND INSIDE. IF THE (B) BATTERY HAPPENS TO FLOP OVER ONTO THE (M) MAGNETO (OR VISA VERSA) THEN IT WILLBACK FEED JUICE (12 VOLT DC) FROM THE BATTERY BACK THRU THAT (M)WIRE RUNNING THROUGH THE STATOR AND ON UP THAT TINY WIRE GOING TO THE SSI UNIT WHICH WILL BURN OUT THE MODULE INSIDE OF THE COIL PACK.WHY? BECAUSE THE STATOR THAT RUNS THE COIL IS AC (ALTERNATING CURRENT) AND YOUR BATTERY IS 12 VOLT DC (DIRECT CURRENT) THEY DO NOT PLAY WELL WITH EACH OTHER. NEVER HAVE!THAT IS WHY THE TWO OUTSIDE WIRES OF THE THREE WIRE TERMINAL HARNESS RUNS TO WHAT THEY CALL THE REGULATOR. THE REGULATER CONVERTS AC TO DC TO CHARGE THE BATTERY. THIS APPLIES TO THE SWITCH THAT IS ON THE VINTAGESEARS, BOLENS, MASSEY FERGUSON MF8, 10 AND 12, JOHN DEERE 110 AN 112 TECUMSEH TRACTORS,WHEEL HORSE CHARGER 9, SOME C-120 AND MANY OTHERS.THIS ALSO APPLIES TO THE CASE UNI-LOADERS AND ARGO AMPHIBIOUS 6-WHEELER WITH TECUMSEH ON IT.AS FOR MILLER WELDERS OF THE ROUGHNECK 2E, BLUESTAR 2E, STARFIRE AND OTHERS THEN TEAR THE COVER OFF AND LOOK CLOSELY AT THE WIRES THAT GOES TO THE TOGGLE SWITCH. FIX AND OR REPAIR WIRES AND CHANGE / REPLACE THE TOGGLE SWITCH.WHEN YOU DO REPLACE THE IGNITION SWITCH OR TOGGLE THEN MAKE DARN SURE YOU TAKE YOUR OLD ONE WITH YOU TO THE PARTS PLACE SO THAT THEY GIVE YOU THE RIGHT ONE. MANY SWITCHES OUT THERE HAVE 5 PRONGS ON THEM BUT DO NOT PAY ATTENTION TO THE LETTERS. PAY CLOSER ATTENTION TO THE RIVETS ON THE BACK OF THE SWITCH.THEY HAVE TO MATCH UP EXACTLY TO THE ONE THAT WAS ON THE TRACTOR!IF THEY DON’T, IT WILL DARN SURE BLOW THE SOLID-STATE COIL UP!STILL DO NOT HOOK UP THE THREE PRONG PLUG YET!NOW REPLACE THE SOLID STATE IGNITION COIL WITH A KNOWN GOOD ONE LIKE OURS AND SET THE GAP ACCORDING TO ABOVE.NOW ROLL THE ENGINE OVER AGAIN BY HAND IN A CLOCKWISE MANNER. YOU SHOULD NOW HAVE SPARK.AFTER YOU NOW SEE SPARK, LEAVE THE SPARK PLUG OUT OF THE ENGINE BUT LEAVE IT INTO THE SPARK PLUG WIRE BOOT.NOW HOOK THE THREE PRONG PLUG BACK UP. TURN YOUR IGNITION SWITCH ONTO THE STARTER TAKE OFF POSITION. ENGINE SHOULD NOW BE ROLLING OVER BY WAY OF THE ELECTRIC STARTER.YOU SHOULD NOW SEE SPARK.NOW PLACE THE SPARK PLUG BACK INTO THE ENGINE ANDFIRE IT UP.THERE ARE THREE THINGS INSIDE OF THIS SOLID STATE IGNITION COIL PACK, THAT IS WHY THESE THINGS ARE SO EXPENSIVE.INSIDE OF THAT PACK IS A MODULE, A TRIGGER MAGNETIC PICKUP AND A COIL.THESE UNITS WERE SEALED SHUT TO KEEP OUT ALL MOISTURE AND AIR OUT.THESE UNITS ARE MADE OF SOLID STATE COMPONENTS WHICH IS WHY THEY WERE NEVER MEANT TO GO BAD. WHY BUY THIS ITEM FROM US?WE NOT ONLY UPLOAD A VIDEO OF THE ITEM IN WORKING ORDER (ON OUR USED ONES) BUT WE EVEN EXTEND OUR HELP TO OUR CUSTOMERS EVEN AFTER THE SALE.WHY TAKE THE CHANCE OF BUYING SOMEONE OTHERCOIL JUST BECAUSE THEY SAY IT WORKS.WE FIND SO VERY MANY OF THESE THAT DON’T WORK.YOU WOULD THEN HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE HASSLE OF SHIPPING THE ITEM BACK TO TRY TO GET YOUR MONEY BACK.THIS IS WHY WE TEST ALL OF OUR USED COILS FIRST BEFORE LISTING THEM.THIS COIL WAS MADE FOR THE OH120, OH140, HH140, HH150, HH160, OH160 ANDOH180 TECUMSEH CAST IRON ENGINES.ALSO FOR SOME HH120 ENGINES ON THE SEARS ST/12 TRACTORS.PLEASE KEEP READING.WHO EVER IS THE PURCHASER OF THIS ITEM WILL RECEIVE OUR SHOP PHONE NO#. THIS IS JUST IN CASE YOU FEEL OR FEAR THAT YOU MIGHT BE DOING SOMETHING WRONG.WE WOULD RATHER HAVE YOU CALL US IF YOU HAVE THE SLIGHTEST UNCERTAINTY ABOUT WHAT YOU ARE DOING.OTHER PEOPLE SELL THEIR USED COIL IGNITION (SSI) UNITS FOR CRAZY AMOUNTS.WE HAVE SEEN THEM AS HIGH AS 350.00 FOR JUST A USED COIL.THE LAST I CHECKED YOU COULD STILL GET THIS COIL BRAND NEW FOR 436.00 DOLLARS. THAT WAS ALMOST 11 YEARS AGO.SEE OUR YOUTUBE VIDEOS. ( LARRYS TECUMSEH COIL TEST ) WE AGAIN, HAVE OVER 310 VIDEOS NOW OF SOLID-STATE IGNITION COIL TESTS.IF THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE YOU NEED IE: CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS, ROCKER ARM ADJUSTMENTS……ANYTHING YOU CAN THINK OF,WE HAVE EXPLODED DISCS AND MANUALS. ALL THE WAY FROM THE HH80 TO THE OH180. WE ALSO HAVE MANUALS FOR MANY TYPES OF VINTAGE SEARS ANDMASSEY FERGUSON LAWN TRACTORS IE: WIRING DIAGRAMS AND SO FORTH.FOR THE PURCHASE OF THIS COIL, WE WILL INCLUDE PRETTY MUCH ANY INFO THAT YOU ASK FOR.AGAIN, WE DO NOT ACCEPT RETURNS FOR THIS ITEM OR ANY ELECTRICAL ITEM. ONE OF OUR REASON IS,WE FOUND A PERSON WHO HOOKED THIS TYPE OF COIL UP WRONG AND HE BLEW IT UP. THAT PERSON HOOKED THE LITTLE POST ON THE SIDE OF THE COIL UP TO THE POSITIVE POST TO THE BATTERY. THAT WILL BLOW UP THIS COIL QUICKER THAN ANYTHING!!! IF I WOULD HAVE SEEN THAT HAPPEN, I WOULD OF TOLD HIM TO PUT THE SCREWDRIVER DOWN AND STEP AWAY FROM THE ENGINE!!!!WELL, WE DID NOT SELL HIM THAT COIL. HE TOLD US WHAT HE HAD DONE AND THEN HE BOUGHT A COIL FROM US. WE INCLUDED ALL THE INFORMATION THAT HE NEEDED TO GET HIS ENGINE UP AND RUNNING AND NEEDLESS TO SAY HE WAS HAPPY. THIS IS WHEN WE DECIDED TO START OFFERING THIS INFO. TO ALL OUR CUSTOMERS.AGAIN! WE DO NOT ACCEPT RETURNS ON THIS ITEM FOR SOME OF THE UNEDUCATED REASONS STATED ABOVE.WE WILL GO OUT OF OUR WAY TO HELP OUR CUSTOMERS BUTWE CANNOT HELP IF YOU DO NOT ASK. HERE IS SOME FEEDBACK FROM THOSE WHO PURCHASED A LOT OF THESE TECUMSEH PARTS FROM US. HOPEFULLY YOU FOUND THIS INFO. HELPFUL FROM A NOW 40 PLUS YEAR (USE TO BE) TECUMSEH BUSINESS SELLER.HERE IS THE VIDEO OF THE ENGINE THAT THIS PART WAS TESTED ON.JUST CLICK ON THE BLUE WORDS BELOW.TECUMSEH COIL TEST 10-29-24 Please Read This!It is very important for Us to satisfy.We try to be as accurate as possible in Our descriptions.Unless the parts are brand New then We try to do videos of most of Our parts. A picture says a thousand words while a video will say a thousand pictures.Only then does one know what it is that they are truly getting for their money. It is thru these videos that We try to strive for all stars from Our customers. WE WANT YOU TO HAVE A GREAT EXPERIENCE WITH US.WE WANT YOU TO PASS THAT WORD ON TO OTHERS ABOUT YOUR EXPERIENCE.THANK YOU FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ THE LISTING.Larry’s Small Engines.

Frequently Asked Questions About TECUMSEH 610906, 610855 CASE 1816 B HH160 BOLENS SEARS MILLER WELDER BLUESTAR 2E in My Website

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Frequently Asked Questions About TECUMSEH 610906, 610855 CASE 1816 B HH160 BOLENS SEARS MILLER WELDER BLUESTAR 2E in My Website

What are the best-selling TECUMSEH 610906, 610855 CASE 1816 B HH160 BOLENS SEARS MILLER WELDER BLUESTAR 2E on thebusmods.com?

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